A properly fitted bra makes your clothes fit better, and can even make you look thinner!
80% of women are wearing the wrong sized bra!
The lift and support of a good fitting bra can also slow and/or camouflage sagging breasts. Cup Size
People with small ribs tend to assume they are As or Bs (because that's often that's all that is available in most bra departments).
Your cup size is proportional to your ribs.
The cup on a 36C might be about the size of an orange, but imagine sticking those oranges on the chest of an 8-year-old. They would look huge! Now take those same oranges and stick them on the chest of a big guy. You'd probably barely notice them.
Same exact cup volume
28G = 30DDD(F) = 32DD(E) = 34D = 36C = 38B = 40A
Large Male = they become pecs!
Heads Up!
Many stores will fit you in the size they carry. Meaning if based on your rib and bust measurements, you should be wearing a 28G, and the store doesn't carry that (most don't!), then they might put you in the next size up that they carry. Most likely they don't carry a 30F and they might not carry a 32DD, either so they'd put you in a 34D. Which means the cup size might fit, but the band will be too loose to be supportive!
Measuring for the Right Size* Bra
- Band Size
Measure around your rib cage, just under your breasts where your bra band will go. This is your band size. Round this number up or down to the nearest even number.
Ex. 33.5" = 34 or 32.75" = 32
Hint:
It's always better to round down if your band width is not within half an inch of the next size up, because your bra will stretch over time. You can wear it on the loosest hooks when you purchase it and tighten it as it stretches out. - Bust Size
Wearing your best-fitting bra, measure around the fullest part of your bust. Subtract your band size from this number. The difference between the 2 numbers is your cup size.
Ex. Bust = 38" Band size =34
38 minus 34 = 4" cup size - Cup Size
Every inch of cup size equals the letter part of your bra size. 1" = A, 2" = B, 3" = C, 4" = D.
Unfortunately, this is where it gets a little confusing.
Different brands tend to use different letters for the same cup size.
5" can equal E or DD
6" can equal F or DDD (some companies even call this EE)
7" can equal FF or DDDD or G
8" can equal GG or H
9" usually equals HH because most companies don't want to use I as it can be confused with the number 1.
10" and up tend to use whatever letter they correspond with 10=J, 11=K, 12=L, 13=M, 14=N... - Bra Size!
Add your band size to your cup letter and Voila! You have your correct bra size.
Ex. 32DD, 40D, 38GG...
BOOB or BUST! - Handy help with bra measuring techniques and more.
All Bras Are Not Created Equal
An important part of finding a good bra is trying them on. I compare this to the search for the perfect fitting pair of jeans. All jeans are not created equal. they can run big or little or fit perky/juicy body parts better or worse. The same is true of bras.
You might find a brand that fits your body well but discover that different styles of the same brand fit differently. I once purchased a specific brand of bra online. I already owned a bra from this company, so I knew my size (in general, this brand runs small so knowing my size was important!). I bought a different style from the one I owned (a balconette bra). When the bra arrived, the boning on the side poked into my armpit and both the cups and the center front were so high that my bra showed when I wore a top that showed any cleavage. The bra was so uncomfortable I couldn't wear it.
You know your size, now what?
Just like jeans (my nemesis!), every brand and style fits differently.
Some run small, some run big, some have stands/boning or underwires that are high under the armpit, on some the gore and/or cups are super high and will show under lower cut tops.
Unfortunately, this means that your best option to finding a good fit is to try the bra on.
- A snug band: The band is what should do the majority of the work supporting your breasts, not the straps. You should be able to put one or two fingers under the band, but no more. (This will probably feel snugger than you are used to because you are used to wearing the wrong size bra!)
Tip:
If your band is pulled away from your body underneath your breasts, this means your cups are probably too small. - Sufficient side coverage:
The bra cup should hold all your breast tissue. This means if you're wearing a bra with an underwire, the end of it should be pointing toward the middle of your armpit. You also shouldn't have any breast tissue coming out from the sides of the cups. - A flat gore:
The gore (the part of the bra band that's between the cups) should sit flat against your chest, without digging into your skin uncomfortably. If it doesn't fit flat, your bra cups are probably too small. - A smooth curve:
Avoid the dreaded "quad-boob"/"muffin top that results from the top of a too-small cup cutting into breast tissue above the bra. Instead, look for a fit that results in a clean silhouette with no stray tissue. (WikiHow To Measure Your Bra Size) - Size and Shape:
Breasts are usually slightly different sizes. If one breast is significantly larger than the other, then I recommend finding a bra that fits the larger breast and adding a small amount of padding to the bra cup (at the bottom of the cup). - Secure Bra Straps:
If your band is the correct size then your bra straps shouldn't constantly slide off your shoulders. This is a common problem for women with narrower frames who are wearing a band that is too big. The straps will be spaced further out on the band than they should be and therefore will be closer to the ball joint of your shoulder rather than the natural curve between the shoulder joint and neck - which means the straps will constantly slip over the shoulder joint and down the arm.
If your bra fits well then the band supports most of the weight of your breasts, instead of the shoulder straps. This means that your bra shouldn't be cutting grooves into your shoulder!
For Those Of Us Who Wear Unusual Sizes
Not only do I have a small rib size and a large cup size (which regular stores don't carry), but I find that most of the time, the underwires on the sides of my bra poke me in the armpit in a lot of bras. Also, I can't always tell how much coverage the bra gives - will it show under low-cut tops? - will someone be able to tell if I'm cold? A lot of times the only way to tell is to just try them on.
Specialty Bra Stores
Every single brand and style fits differently. This is why I prefer to use a specialty bra shop and get fitted by a professional. (Not a store like V.S. where the secret is that their "trained" fitters tend to put you in the closest-to-your-size bra that they have in stock).
Specialty stores usually carry a wide variety of bras to try on to find a good fit and the type of bra that I prefer (coverage, style, brand...).
Buying Online
Every brand and style of bra fits differently. If you are purchasing a bra you haven't already tried on, you should definitely shop somewhere with a flexible return policy.
Alterations
One option I use a lot is to find a bra that has the right size cups and then have a professional seamstress alter the band size for me. Luckily for me, I happen to be a seamstress, but it's not an especially difficult alteration and many of the specialty stores offer alterations as an additional service.
Not only do I have a small rib size and a large cup size (which regular stores don't carry), but I find that most of the time, the underwires on the sides of my bra poke me in the armpit in a lot of bras. Also, I can't always tell how much coverage the bra gives - will it show under low-cut tops? - will someone be able to tell if I'm cold? A lot of times the only way to tell is to just try them on.
Specialty Bra Stores
Every single brand and style fits differently. This is why I prefer to use a specialty bra shop and get fitted by a professional. (Not a store like V.S. where the secret is that their "trained" fitters tend to put you in the closest-to-your-size bra that they have in stock).
Specialty stores usually carry a wide variety of bras to try on to find a good fit and the type of bra that I prefer (coverage, style, brand...).
Tip: Even bras from the same company can fit differently, I often can't find my size (34HH) in the average store, and bras from specialty stores typically cost a lot ($70+), so if I don't need a bra right away, I usually go to a specialty bra store to get fitted by a professional. They bring me different bras to try on for fit.
When I find a bra that fits well and that I like, then I discretely take pictures of the tags. Often, I can purchase the exact same bra online for significantly less. When I want to buy another one, I usually find them for even less because they are no longer the latest model.
Buying Online
Every brand and style of bra fits differently. If you are purchasing a bra you haven't already tried on, you should definitely shop somewhere with a flexible return policy.
Losing Weight and Stretched Out Bras
When purchasing a bra, unless your rib measurement is within a half-inch of a band size (ex. 33.5"-34" would buy a 34), I suggest you buy the next smaller band size (ex. 33" would buy a 32), because your bra will stretch out over time. You can wear it on the loosest hooks when you purchase it or even add an extender and then tighten it as the bra stretches out (or you lose that weight you swear you are going to lose!).
When purchasing a bra, unless your rib measurement is within a half-inch of a band size (ex. 33.5"-34" would buy a 34), I suggest you buy the next smaller band size (ex. 33" would buy a 32), because your bra will stretch out over time. You can wear it on the loosest hooks when you purchase it or even add an extender and then tighten it as the bra stretches out (or you lose that weight you swear you are going to lose!).
If you purchase the smaller band size don't forget about sister sizing! You'll need to go up a cup size if you're going down a band size. If your normal bra size is 40A then you would wear a 38B.
Sagging - As your body gets older you lose a lot of the elasticity of the breast skin, this is the most common cause of saggy breasts, especially for women with larger cup sizes. Wearing a properly fitting bra that supports the breasts can slow this process and/or camouflage it.
One option I use a lot is to find a bra that has the right size cups and then have a professional seamstress alter the band size for me. Luckily for me, I happen to be a seamstress, but it's not an especially difficult alteration and many of the specialty stores offer alterations as an additional service.
How To Make Sewing Pattern Modifications
Different types/ styles of bras:
- Unlined - offer structure but are lightweight because they have no heavy padding.
- Demi Cup - only covers about half the breast. This allows for low cut tops.
Demi Bra - Balconette - similar to the Demi cup bra, but usually covers less of the breast. The straps are closer to the outside edge than a standard bra. They also tend to be more femininely embellished.
Balconette Bra - Push-Up - has padding on the bottom or on the sides of the cups to push up the breasts. The outside of the cups can also be padded to add up to 2 cup sizes.
Push-up Plunge - Plunge - similar to the push-up bra, but with a deep v-neckline in the front.
- Full Coverage - for full-figured/busty women - this has more support and a sturdier underwire
Full Coverage - Minimizer - usually worn by full-figured/ busty women who wish to compress the breasts to make them less noticeable and/or clothing fit better.
Minimizer - Strapless - relies on the support of the band without needing straps.
Strapless Pushup - Convertible - straps can be reconfigured so that the bra straps can be moved and reattached to work under a halter, racerback, backless, one shoulder.
Convertible Straps - Sports Bra - usually made of stretchy fashion fabric. Designed to compress breasts and keep them from bouncing/ moving during vigorous exercise. Usually extends down the ribs a couple of inches like a longline bra. Typically does not have adjustable straps or underwire. Can be worn under athletic clothes or by itself.
Sports Bra - Bralette/ Longline - provides a little more coverage because the bra band extends down the ribs, but usually in a lighter, more flexible fabric. Can be worn under sheer tops and be meant to be visible.
Longline/ Bralette - Adhesive/Tape - Adhesive bras or boob tapes are great for wearing under clothes that are backless, strapless, and/or have plunging necklines. They can also be used to minimize or bind the breasts.
Adhesive bras and tapes can create cleavage and even add cup sizes. However, finding an adhesive bra that supports the breasts and stays on (many won't stay stuck to the skin and/or are painful to remove) can be very difficult.
For example, this bra is pushing the breasts together, giving the woman cleavage, but it is not supporting the breasts at all. Dancing and any other activity where the breasts are bouncing around (like running on the beach in a lifeguard swimsuit! lol), would probably be painful.
Think of an adhesive bra like you do any other bra - does it provide the lift and support you want?
- Misses Kisses Bra - frontless, backless, and strapless! It sounds crazy but it works. There are other brands but this one gets great reviews.
- Longline/ Bustier - usually strapless and extends down to the waist or hips. Often used in bridal wear for dresses that are low-cut and/or backless. Made of sturdier bra-type materials with boning, Usually has hook and eye closures just like a regular bra, but all the way down the front or back. Can be used for slimming the torso, waist, and hips (if extends past the waist).
Longline/ Bustier waist length and longline - Corset - Similar to a bustier, but made of fashion fabric instead of bra-type materials with built-in boning. Usually closed with ribbon through grommets laced down the front or back of the corset. Often tightened in a way that pushes up the breasts and compresses the torso (and waist and hips depending on the length), creating an hourglass shape. Can be worn as an undergarment or over a blouse or dress.
Typical Lacing -
- Underbust -fit around and under the bust but not actually supporting the bust (with straps this is usually considered to be a corset, without straps this is usually called a Waist Cinch or Waist Trainer). Can also push-up the breasts by supporting the base of the breasts without covering the breasts.
Underbust corset - halter straps - Overbust - with or without straps
- Push up the breasts without using a breast cup or molded form by compressing the bottom of the breast and pushing the rest of the breast tissue upward
Demi cup corset
- Princess seams - no individual cups, but the fabric is shaped to accommodate the breasts.
Princess seams with straps - - Individual cups
- Underbust -fit around and under the bust but not actually supporting the bust (with straps this is usually considered to be a corset, without straps this is usually called a Waist Cinch or Waist Trainer). Can also push-up the breasts by supporting the base of the breasts without covering the breasts.
What a great post! This is something that every woman should read and heed!
ReplyDeleteI need fitted for a new bra, so this is something I need to know! Thanks for all the info.
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