Pant Pattern Adjustments (Some Notes)

 

Pant Pattern Adjustment (Some Notes)

(Photo attributed to Beyond_Measure_UK but I'm not totally sure it's theirs). 

Pants Fitting Guide by 5 out of 4 This post gives pretty good descriptions of how to tell why the crotch doesn't look right on an individual based primarily on the wrinkles and bulges. 

Tin Foil Crotch Curve by 5 out of 4 This post has a DIY way of determining your crotch curve (you can also use a flexible ruler). Their video of Tin Foil Crotch Curve.

{I have tried this and LOVE the results. I'd post a pic here, but unfortunately, this project is a UFO. lol}

Full Tummy Adjustment If your garment offers a good fit in the back, but the front feels tight in the abdomen, you need a full tummy adjustment. A fuller abdomen requires two things: additional room in the midsection as well as a little extra length. This post also tells you how and when to raise and lower darts. This adjustment is super easy and will help you achieve a better fit.

A good video tutorial by Dorothy Daughter on adjusting patterns based on "reading the wrinkles."

Adjusting The Front of Pant Patterns 

Adjust The Back Of Pant Patterns  (Ex. Flat butt (13 min), Low seat (15 min). 

I like this tutorial on blocking/drafting a pattern based on crotch curves. 

https://youtu.be/LI-eiEzKl8k

This post has a ton of resources for fitting and constructing pants - http://curvysewingcollective.com/pantsmaking-resources-fitting-and-construction/ 

Tips For Stopping Shorts From Riding/Bunching Up

1. Wear The Right Length for your body. Not only do you not want short's hems to go across the widest part of your thigh (drawing attention to that part) but if your pants are too short then that wider part of your thigh actually pushes them up into the crotch area. 

Stand in front of your mirror in just your undies.Take a look at those legs in total honesty. The length of any bottom garment should hit right where your leg gets to a thinner part, a slim zone. You will probably have a few of these locations on your legs.

When you try on shorts, stand back and see if they land within those slim zones.

Most of us girls have some sort of “swell” at our upper thigh. If you’re lucky like me, you have a super ample thigh in every direction. I want my shorts to hit where that curve is completely resolved. For me, that means about a 6”- 7” inseam. Absolutely NO shorter if you want the to hit at a more slimming length.

A mid length short that has a bit of looseness is my most flattering because it doesn’t create a horizontal line across the widest part of my thigh. It’s also long enough to cover that part under my “hind cheeks” that I  call “my second butt”. 50, Fat & Free to Wear Shorts

2.  Polyester boning - Try adding flexible covered polyester boning to the inseam. (you can also order iron-in or adhesive boning designed specifically for shorts  - https://noriders.com/ )

3.  Garment Weights - Add garment weights to the hem. This works best for loose, flowy skirts and shorts.

4.  Size Up and Tailor To Fit - Purchase or pattern shorts that fit your largest dimension (or even a size above that) -- for me this is the butt! and then tailor/alter to fit the rest of the body. 

5.  Secure the Hem - Wear shorts that have a rolled-up hem or are fairly snug so they cling to the leg instead of going traveling up north!