Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) and Other Pattern Adjustments

Whether sewing for ourselves or others, we all struggle with making pattern adjustments to handle fitting challenges. I use a combination of several techniques when adjusting a pattern, especially for a fitted garment. {Are You Wearing The Right-Sized Bra?, Getting To The Perfect Dress}

I love this article about figuring out what proportions look best on your body, especially because it focuses on full figures. DEFINING STYLE: HOW TO DRESS FOR YOUR SHAPE.

I feel a good place to start is with Nancy Zieman. Her books and videos make adjusting patterns simple to understand and do. 

Sewing With Nancy - Fitting Finesse

Yes, this series was made in 1994 so feel free to laugh at the fashion but the techniques never go out of style!

It's All About The Shoulders

One key point in Nancy's videos/books is that the shoulders are the most important area to fit because everything else is easily adjustable.

If we cut a pattern based on our bust measurement and that measurement is different than the average B cup then the shoulders will not fit. I've bought tops that were an XL to accommodate my bust only to have the top drown me everywhere else because I have a small frame. 

Nancy's method uses a unique chart that helps you choose a pattern based on your shoulder width and then helps you make any adjustments needed everywhere else (bust, waist, hips, back...). Nancy then teaches easy-to-understand techniques on how to do that. Her pivot technique is great.

Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)
Unless I'm missing something (and I'll admit I haven't looked at it in depth in years and mostly skimmed it for this post), Nancy's technique adds or subtracts size adjustments to all of the seams equally. In my opinion, this does not make sense. If you're adjusting for a larger/smaller bust, the changes should be made in the bust area! Adding or subtracting these adjustments from all the seams including the back ones makes no sense. The same idea applies to people with a larger belly and/or backside.

For example. The bust measurement for a pattern size 14 is 36". If your bust measurement is 40" then most of the 4" difference should be added to the front, right?! 

Custom Fit

The pattern for this dress was customized using the base

 pattern created through the Fast-Track Fitting Technique. 

For more fitted clothing, you'll need detailed measurements and adjustments. 

Fast-Track Fitting by Joi Mahon

I found a great measurement format through Craftsy. Called Fast-Track Fitting by Joi Mahon It offers a very detailed measuring system. I'll be honest, making the customized pattern is a lot of work, but when you're done you have a base pattern that fits perfectly and you'll know how and where to use those adjustments on any patterns you use in the future. 

Note: I used the muslin made using this system as a cover for my mannequin. I added padding where it needed filling out and when I was done it was much more accurate than my adjustable mannequin. This gave me a better form to drape on and cut down on the number of fittings needed. I made one for each of the people I sewed for often. 

The Beginners Guide: Full Bust Adjustment by curvysewingcollective.com

Most Big 4 patterns are drafted using a B-cup bodice and it’s rare that Indies are drafted larger than C-cups. If your bra size falls outside this range, then an FBA is for you! Even if your measurements are exactly identical to those on the pattern envelope, chances are weird fitting issues will crop up with a large cup size. It’s astounding the number of these issues a good FBA can fix, from floppy shoulders to gaping button bands and armscyes. 

FBA with Knits

How to do an FBA on a dartless knit bodice. See this awesome tutorial at https://blog.cashmerette.com/2020/10/how-to-do-a-knit-fba.html 

1. Create a muslin (sample garment) using fabric the same weight and stretch of the knit you plan to use for your garment. 
2. Put the muslin on and measure how much the muslin's hem rides up in front. This will be your Bust Adjustment amount.
3. Draw a horizontal line across the front pattern piece across the bust apex.
4. Cut along the horizontal line and separate the pattern pieces by the Bust Adjustment amount. keep the pattern lined up with the front edge of the pattern.
5. 
   At the side seam, add a slight curve—essentially, a "boob bubble." This helps create additional width for the bust. This bit is more of an estimate, but we recommend adding about 1/2″ to 3/4″. Trace a new pattern piece.
6. Notch the fabric at the top and bottom of the Bust Adjustment gap.

Sewing Instructions

1. Pin the Front piece to the Back piece starting at the hem and going up to the bottom notch.

2. Pin from the armhole to the top notch.

3. Stitch the Front to the Back starting at the hem and going to the bottom notch. When you get to the bottom notch, gently stretch the back piece until it lines up with the front piece, and continue to sew. When you get to the top notch, stop stretching and sew the rest of the seam as you would normally.

FBA with Bras/Corsets/Fitted tops 

One thing I found super helpful was to make/draft a pattern from a bra that fits me {Are You Wearing The Right-Sized Bra?}. I often use the underwires from my old bras that are worn out or from cheap bras that have the right size cups even though the rest of the bra is too big for me Ex. I wear a 34H, which is impossible to find cheap, but I can use the underwire from a "sister-size" bra - 34H, 36G, 38F(aka38DDD), 40DD, 42D, 44C... one of those sizes should be much more common and therefore I can find it cheaper. You can also order underwires in all different shapes and sizes online.

To make my own corsets, I've adapted patterns using the techniques listed above ^.
{Corsets - Vogue 9273, Wonder Woman Costume} I've also learned a lot from the free tutorials at the Corset Academy (I've never purchased any courses because as far as I can tell, they wouldn't be very useful for someone with serious curves but the sewing techniques are great. They have a lot of free stuff on their YouTube channel as well. 

More good articles about FBAs

Curvy Sewing Collective - The Beginners Guide to Full Bust Adjustment

Good articles about making large FBAs

Curvy Sewing Collective - Large FBA Issues - Dealing With The Big Honkin' Dart

Sew Busty - Giant Full Bust Adjustments on a Woven Bodice

Sew Busty - Giant Full Bust Adjustment on a Knit Bodice - AKA Adding A Dart When You Need One

*****************

Pant Pattern Adjustment (Some Notes)

DIY Staining Kitchen Cabinets

Staining Kitchen Cabinets

This tutorial is how I DIY stained all the dated golden oak cabinets in my entire house (and later my new house) without spending hours stripping the wood first with harsh chemicals and without adding layer after layer of stain to get them this dark walnut.

I didn't want to just paint the kitchen cabinets as the realtor suggested, and we couldn't afford to make a lot of expensive updates (hence keeping the dated backsplash and baby blue Formica countertops!). Gel staining the cabinets (and a few other changes - mostly painting) allowed us to add $25K to the sale price of our house for less than $200!  

I found this great DIY tutorial for staining a bathroom vanity a dark color without stripping the stain first.
http://www.pneumaticaddict.com/2014/06/darken-cabinets-without-stripping.html 

I've included her instructions here and added my own comments and changes in red and my updated comments in green (after I completed a few more projects and learned a few tricks!). 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BT4dPDzUvYE Another good tutorial if you prefer video.


SUPPLIES:

•  Varathane gel stain (by Rustoleum) in the color Dark Walnut
   I had to special order this because my local hardware store only had it available online. I needed ~4 quarts to do the whole kitchen (about 50 cabinets and drawers - my smaller kitchen required less than 2 quarts). 

• Deft Satin Clear Wood Finish – spray
   This would take way too many cans for my project, so I used:
• Minwax satin finish polyurethane (poly} – 1 gallon 
  
  
• 2-4 stir sticks for stirring the gel stain and poly – these are usually free in the paint department.
  
  
• Felt pads
  I cut my own from 1” Heavy-Duty Felt Pads, Self-Adhesive – designed for keeping furniture from scratching floors that I got at the dollar store. You can get about 4 from each 1" pad.
  
  
• 150 grit sandpaper
  I used 100 grit which is much coarser cause I’m lazy like that. 
  
  
• 220 grit sandpaper
   (I used a paper bag which is the cheap equivalent to 220 grit sandpaper) to lightly sand the poly.
   
• Drawer pulls and handles (50!) 
  
  
• TONS of blue painter’s tape 
  
  
• Black sharpie
  
  
• ~75 Sandwich bags (fold-down top not Ziploc) 
  
  
• 1” soft brush* (for stain) 
  
  
• 2” soft brush* (for poly) 
  **If you purchase cheap brushes then you can just throw them away when you’re done! No cleanup! But do get ones that are soft for the poly it will go on much smoother
  
  
• Rubber gloves 
  I didn’t actually use the rubber gloves, because I don’t care about getting stain on my hands – it does wash off. Plus, when I let the stain dry on the rubber gloves it actually ate through the gloves overnight.
  
  
• Paint clothes** -
  I can’t tell you how many times I brushed up against a cabinet or dripped stain or poly on myself. Don't forget your footwear!
  
  
• Damp cloth or paper towels to wipe up any drips that land where they shouldn’t.
   
• Plastic tarp
  (that dry cleaning thin plastic stuff won’t work, you need something a little heavier that won't stick to your cabinets).
  

INSTRUCTIONS: 

1. Purchase and drill holes for new hardware. 
   If you are attaching new hardware, make your life easier and build a jig from some scrap wood. It takes only a couple minutes to put together and ensures each hole is drilled in the exact same spot on every door. If you don't feel like putting a jig together, you can purchase a plastic guide.
   
   I recommend D. Lawless Hardware! If you are looking for cabinet hardware, you have got to check them out. Honestly, the best prices and best customer service!
   
   If like me, you’re adding or changing the hardware, I suggest adding the holes for the new hardware BEFORE you do all the stain work. That way, if you mess up you can patch it/ fix it fairly easily. I’d planned to add hardware, but at the thought of messing up my pretty newly stained cabinets and drawers (C&D), I changed my mind.
   
   
2. Remove drawer faces and cabinet doors. I have seen people stain them in place, but don't do it. It takes like 5 minutes to unscrew the old doors. Let’s do it the right way people.
   
   
   Before removal, I used a piece of painter’s tape to number each cabinet and drawer face(C&D). I then took a picture of the labeled C&D so I knew where they went. When I sanded, I just moved the taped number to the side I was not working on. When I stained (Tetris style!) I put the number on the plastic sheet under the C&D.

   

   
   
   
   
   On my next project, I got smarter. I used a piece of painter's tape with the C &/or D's assigned # on it and stuck it unobtrusively inside each C&D's box/base and left it there until the C or D was done and put back in place.
   
   Using a sharpie, I labeled baggies with the C or D's #. When I took the hinges off a C door or removed a D, I put the hinges and screws in the baggie (so the hinges and screws didn’t get all mixed together).
   
   Instead of putting painters tape on the C or D that would then have to be removed everytime I needed to work on it, I did something different.
   
   Using my sharpie, I wrote the C's # inside one of the spaces where the hinges go. This spot isn't painted or stained, so it would stay visible (rather than having to move a piece of painter's tape multiple times). Also, the number wouldn't show when the hinges are on. (When I stained the C door I had to try to keep the stain from covering the number (sometimes I forgot and it was NOT fun trying to find where it went in the kitchen. Next time, I will protect the number by putting a piece of painter's tape over it).
   
   For drawers, I wrote the D's # on the backside of the D’s face where it doesn't get stained. 
   
   
   If you’re going to add hardware (Step 9), I would probably drill the holes NOW before you remove the C&Ds. That way if anything goes wrong you can patch/fix it. I'd also put the hardware in the same bag as the hinges.
   
   TIP:
   If like me, you’re going to be doing a large number of cabinets (50! C&D), think about doing them in sections and only remove the doors and drawer faces for that one section. I didn’t have enough workspace to do all the C&D at once, so I did as many as I could fit on my workspace (about ½). I just happened to do all the drawers and smaller cabinets in the first “batch.” Since I had removed ALL the doors and drawer faces, my kitchen looked awful for weeks.
   
   
   I didn’t work on the cabinet boxes/ bases right away either so some of the finished doors and faces that were done had nowhere to go. If I had to do it all again, I would probably work on one group of cabinets and leave the other group alone until I was ready to do them. Also, I would do the cabinet boxes/bases first.
   
   
   
   
   
3. Sand lightly, especially if your cabinets are on the newer side. It shouldn't take very long. You aren't looking to remove the finish, just give it some "tooth". I used 150 grit. Make sure to use a damp rag or tack cloth to wipe them clean after.
   
   I used 100 grit and removed all the shiny poly as completely as I could.
   
   
   After sanding, I covered a work space with a tarp and laid out the C&D “Tetris style.” (I used the pool table which was a comfortable height to work on and not putting it on the floor meant I didn’t have to worry about the pets walking on it. A dining room table or counter top might be ok but moving it if you wanted to use the space would be a pain).
   {Plywood or an old door on sawhorses works fine too. I used them out in the garage which helped a lot with fumes.}
   
   I used heavy plastic tarps (the super thin plastic tarps that look like dry cleaning bags wrinkled up and stuck to my C&D – so use something heavier). I took the painter’s tapes labeled with the C&D number and taped it to the tarp underneath the C&D it belonged to.
   
   Make sure you set up in an area where you can open windows or something to vent the fumes!
   
   
4.  Stir Gel Stain well. Once your wood is prepped, time to start staining. One mistake I see people do is to not stir their stain. Gel stain is super thick! Like pudding. Although the pigment in gel stain doesn't separate as quickly as traditional stain, it is still a good idea to stir it well before use. 
   
   
5. Cover hand and glove in thick sock. As for application, I'll admit, I totally stole this idea. Once again, being a rebel, I tried applying the stain with a high quality brush but still had terrible brush strokes. I finally caved and went with the crowd and used a thick sock over a gloved hand. It really worked great to get a smooth, even application.
   
   
   This totally didn’t work for me. I couldn’t get it in the corners and it left blotchy spots where I couldn’t get it to smooth in the corners. Plus, by the second day, the stain had broken down the rubber in my rubber gloves! I ended up with stain all over my fingers anyway. The stain I chose was dark and I did multiple layers, so paint brush marks didn’t end up showing anyway.
   
   TIP:
   Always have make your strokes go with the grain of the wood! It makes it look more realistic.
   
   
   I used a small 1 inch brush and made smooth strokes with the wood grain. I discovered that I liked the “streaks” left by where the brush strokes overlapped a little. They didn’t really show up by the time I hit the 3^rd coat, but it kept the wood grain look.
   
   TIP: This is a long process, so rather than throw away or clean the brushes and rollers every time I stopped for the day, I put them in a plastic baggie or Saran Wrap (getting out as much of the air as possible). Putting the brushes/rollers with stain on them in the fridge made the stay usable longer; however, don't do this with the poly!
   
   
6.   Wipe stain with the grain, with long strokes. For an authentic, stained wood look, make sure to wipe with the grain of the wood and be mindful of intersections. Keep the coats even but thin. Warning, the first coat will look like crap. At this point you will totally be second guessing yourself and possibly cursing my name. It will get better, I promise.
   
   VERY IMPORTANT! Let each coat dry for at least 12 hours. Seriously. I don't care if the can says you "can re-coat in 2 hours". Don't do it.
   
   
   Each coat gets better and better. It took me 3 coats till the color looked even and natural.
   I applied the stain with little strokes (with the grain) to evenly distribute the stain, then, while it was still wet, I made long, smooth strokes (with the grain!) from the top to the bottom of the whole segment of wood. I feathered the edges when I couldn’t get it in one long stroke.
   
   
   
   Some of these cabinets are super long and “feathering” the brush strokes was difficult. One technique I liked was using the brush to glob some stain along the corners/ edges and then putting a glob of stain about every 6”. That way I could paint the stain from top to bottom (with the grain!) in one long, smooth stroke without having to stop and reload my brush. I wish I’d taken a picture!
   
   After the stain had dried about 6 hours, I flipped the C&D over and stained the other side. Waited 6 hours, then flipped it again to paint the first side again... This meant each side still had 12 full hours to dry, but it took ½ the time to stain my 50! C&D.
   
   
7. Tape and mask off area around cabinet boxes. If you want professional results, you are going to want to spray your sealant (I'll explain more in a minute). Take the doors to the (open) garage to spray, but the vanity will have to get sprayed in place. Yes, you can spray inside your house. Actually, that's how the pros do it. You can pick up plastic drop cloths at Home Depot for dirt cheap. Cover anything you don't want sprayed and make sure to have as much ventilation as possible!
   
   I really should have made sure I had much better ventilation than I did! I got a little loopy!
   
   C&D: I learned the hard way that poly likes to drip to the other side of the C&D you’re working on, leaving drips and patches of mess. I started using Blue Painter’s tape to cover the “back side” while I worked. That way if/when it dripped, it came off when I peeled off the tape. Although it used a lot of tape, it saved me HOURS of resanding, restaining and repolying…
   
   
   Rather than mess with a ton of plastic tarps/ sheeting that was going to get stepped on and torn, I used strips of blue painter’s tape where the cabinet boxes met the floor and/or walls. It takes at least 72 hours to do 3 coats of stain and 1 coat of poly on the base cabinets and that's a long time to have tarps to mess around with.
   
   
   I did about 3 rows of the painter’s tape on the floor. One right at the edge where the cabinet kick plate met the floor, and then another butted up against that one, and another butted up to that one. When done, the tape extended out a little farther than the edge of the cabinet (about 6”). That way when it dripped, the stain landed on the tape, not my floor.
   
   {I have no idea why it didn't occur to me to just tape down a 6"-8" wide strip of heavy paper or plastic instead of rows of overlapping tape. Duh! I guess I got used to the thought of using giant sheets of plastic or little strips of tape. *sigh*}
   
   
   I also put one line of painter's tape inside the cabinet box (where the wood  met the inside of the cabinet box, which I didn’t want to stain). This meant I could apply the stain easily around the edges of the wood trim. If I’d cared about the underside of my countertop, I would have done the same thing there.
   
   
   Moving out the dishwasher, vent hood, and stove wasn’t really an option, so to protect them, I taped them up as best I could, and stained as far back as I could reach. When someone replaces these items, they’ll know the cabinets weren’t originally this color, but I don’t care!
   
   
8. Spray vanity and doors with 3-4 coats of satin lacquer. If you read other tutorials, they will all tell you to use a water-based, wipe on top coat. Here's my thoughts: This is a bathroom. These cabinets will be frequently exposed to water. Water-based sealants aren't durable to long term water exposure.
9. 
   Once I decided to refinish my cabinets, I decided to make them look and feel as professional as possible. I started watching dozens of YouTube videos and reading on cabinet maker forums. One thing was universal. Professionals use lacquer to seal cabinets for a variety of reasons. #1- Its dries fast! You can re-coat, without sanding, in 30 minutes. #2- It dries hard as a rock, unlike poly products which are essentially flexible plastic. And #3- It is VERY durable. Once fully cured, a lacquered surface should withstand years of heavy use. I know, DIYers are usually scared of lacquer.
   
   The good news is, I found a clear lacquer in a spray can! I have a couple of paint guns, but I try to avoid running anything but water-based products through them, since I hate the cleanup. Home Depot carries a product by Deft (owned by Minwax) that is perfect! It goes on super even, and gives professional looking results. I sprayed 3 coats on the vanity as well as bothsides of the doors and ended up using 6 cans. Here is a link to buy it online.
   
   
   
   Spray lacquer just wasn’t an option for me. It took her 6 cans to do a bathroom vanity. I was doing an entire kitchen. Waaayyy too many cans.
   
   
   
   I didn’t spray anything! I used a soft paint brush to put on the Poly and I didn’t notice any brush marks or anything (although I did have to watch for drips.
   On cabinet boxes, I suggest going back about 5 minutes later. You'll be surprised how often there will be some drips you missed.
   
   I used a 2” brush and regular satin polyurethane. Most of the time it only took one coat. 
   FYI, use a soft brush (one intended for poly is awesome and might be worth paying a little more). Also, you might want to do 2 coats of poly around the sink cabinet box and doors and drawer faces.}
   
   
   
   TIP: STIR THE POLY!!  Don’t forget to thoroughly STIR THE POLY! I kind of swished it around a little instead of doing a good job EVERY TIME I used it. The result was a too glossy finish at the beginning and toward the end, almost completely matte. 
   Be careful when stirring the poly not to stir it in a way that will add bubbles into the poly. You want what is on your brush to be clear and bubble free.
   
   
   After I polyed I used a piece of paper bag and lightly “sanded” the finished coat. It took down any slightly rough patches and reminded me to check every surface to make sure it was smooth and even). If it didn’t look perfect, then I fixed it (removed the hair or drip or whatever) and just added another coat of poly.
   
   
   Cabinet Boxes: When polying the sides of the cabinet boxes, I used a similar technique to that mentioned for the stain (horizontal stripes of globbed on poly about every 6 inches so I could smoothly run the brush from top to bottom without having to stop and reload my brush). Watch for drips (especially at the top).
   
   
   TIP: Remove the tape while the poly is still wet. Otherwise when you pull up the tape it might take pieces of the poly drip and the stain with it.
   
   
10. 
    Add felt or rubber pads. After allowing the lacquer to dry over-night, one more step I highly recommend is using felt or rubber pads on the corners of the drawer and cabinet faces. These little guys are easy to find, cheap, and help your cabinets function better. The small space they provide between the doors and frames keep the fresh stain and lacquer from sticking to itself. They are also a must for painted cabinets! Here's a link to buy them online 
    
    I needed so many of these that the cost really added up (2 for every C&D – 3 for especially long C doors). I found some thick felt pads, at the Dollar Store! (originally for keeping furniture legs from scratching the floor), and cut them up. I quartered the one inch circles and trimmed them in to a rough circle the size of those expensive little pads. A couple of sets of 16 1” pads was way more than I needed to do all the C&D.
    Bonus: The thicker pads made the C&D stick out a little more. Since we decided not to add hardware, this made it a little easier to grip the edge of C&D to open them.
    
11.       Install C&D. It’s much easier to add hardware and hinges on each C&D BEFORE putting them back on the cabinet boxes.

BEFORE AND AFTERS: 

Master Bath Before

 Master Bath After:

Guest Bath After:

1970s Kitchen Before

1970s Kitchen With Drop Ceiling Removed and New Cabinets Planned

1970s Kitchen with Cabinets Done (We were actually building some of the cabinets, so the process took so long that I misplaced one set of hinges. Can you tell which cabinet? They showed up later.) 

1970s Kitchen with Wall Removed, Peninsula Added, Granite, and Backsplash - DONE!

(Flooring is photoshopped in this pic. We didn't finish the flooring until later)

UPDATE: 

1970s Kitchen with cabinets professionally painted

Would I DIY stain my cabinets again? 

At the time, it was what I could afford and I liked the look of the dark walnut. 

Now, I prefer the lighter paint color and getting that smooth matte finish was something that worked better with a professional paint sprayer. So if it was an option, I'd have a professional painter do it. 

UPDATE UPDATE: 

It has nothing to do with painting/staining cabinets, but wanna see the results of my latest kitchen renovation?

I kept all of the existing cabinets (I did add a couple) and countertops. I ripped out a couple of walls, moved the ceiling beams into the attic and  changed the configuration.

1970s Kitchen Open Concept

Wearing the right size bra?!

I can't tell you how many fittings I've done where the person was wearing the wrong size bra, or even thought that they didn't need one!

A properly fitted bra makes your clothes fit better, and can even make you look thinner!

80% of women are wearing the wrong sized bra!

The lift and support of a good fitting bra can also slow and/or camouflage sagging breasts. 

Cup Size
People with small ribs tend to assume they are As or Bs (because that's often that's all that is available in most bra departments). 

Your cup size is proportional to your ribs.  

The cup on a 36C might be about the size of an orange, but imagine sticking those oranges on the chest of an 8-year-old. They would look huge! Now take those same oranges and stick them on the chest of a big guy.  You'd probably barely notice them.

Same exact cup volume

28G = 30DDD(F) = 32DD(E) = 34D = 36C = 38B = 40A

Large Male = they become pecs!

Heads Up!

Many stores will fit you in the size they carry. Meaning if based on your rib and bust measurements, you should be wearing a 28G, and the store doesn't carry that (most don't!), then they might put you in the next size up that they carry. Most likely they don't carry a 30F and they might not carry a 32DD, either so they'd put you in a 34D. Which means the cup size might fit, but the band will be too loose to be supportive!

Measuring for the Right Size* Bra

1. Band Size
   Measure around your rib cage, just under your breasts where your bra band will go. This is your band size. Round this number up or down to the nearest even number.
   Ex. 33.5" = 34 or 32.75" = 32
   Hint:
   It's always better to round down if your band width is not within half an inch of the next size up, because your bra will stretch over time. You can wear it on the loosest hooks when you purchase it and tighten it as it stretches out.
2. Bust Size
   Wearing your best-fitting bra, measure around the fullest part of your bust. Subtract your band size from this number. The difference between the 2 numbers is your cup size.
   Ex. Bust = 38" Band size =34
   38 minus 34 = 4" cup size
3. Cup Size
   Every inch of cup size equals the letter part of your bra size. 1" = A, 2" = B, 3" = C, 4" = D.
   Unfortunately, this is where it gets a little confusing.
   Different brands tend to use different letters for the same cup size.
   5" can equal E or DD
   6" can equal F or DDD (some companies even call this EE)
   7" can equal FF or DDDD or G
   8" can equal GG or H
   9" usually equals HH because most companies don't want to use I as it can be confused with the number 1.
   10" and up tend to use whatever letter they correspond with 10=J, 11=K, 12=L, 13=M, 14=N...
4. Bra Size!
   Add your band size to your cup letter and Voila! You have your correct bra size.
   Ex. 32DD, 40D, 38GG...

    * This measuring system is intended to be a jumping-off point. There are things that can affect these numbers like broad/narrow shoulders, different size breasts, measuring over a poorly fitting bra, older breasts tend to lose their elasticity and fullness so may not fill out the upper portion of the bra cup like they used to...

BOOB or BUST! - Handy help with bra measuring techniques and more. 

All Bras Are Not Created Equal 

An important part of finding a good bra is trying them on. I compare this to the search for the perfect fitting pair of jeans. All jeans are not created equal. they can run big or little or fit perky/juicy body parts better or worse. The same is true of bras. 

You might find a brand that fits your body well but discover that different styles of the same brand fit differently. I once purchased a specific brand of bra online. I already owned a bra from this company, so I knew my size (in general, this brand runs small so knowing my size was important!). I bought a different style from the one I owned (a balconette bra). When the bra arrived, the boning on the side poked into my armpit and both the cups and the center front were so high that my bra showed when I wore a top that showed any cleavage. The bra was so uncomfortable I couldn't wear it. 

You know your size, now what?

Just like jeans (my nemesis!), every brand and style fits differently.

 Some run small, some run big, some have stands/boning or underwires that are high under the armpit, on some the gore and/or cups are super high and will show under lower cut tops. 

Unfortunately, this means that your best option to finding a good fit is to try the bra on.

How to tell if a bra fits: 

1. A snug band: The band is what should do the majority of the work supporting your breasts, not the straps. You should be able to put one or two fingers under the band, but no more. (This will probably feel snugger than you are used to because you are used to wearing the wrong size bra!)
   Tip:
   If your band is pulled away from your body underneath your breasts, this means your cups are probably too small.
2. Sufficient side coverage:
   The bra cup should hold all your breast tissue. This means if you're wearing a bra with an underwire, the end of it should be pointing toward the middle of your armpit. You also shouldn't have any breast tissue coming out from the sides of the cups.
3. A flat gore:
   The gore (the part of the bra band that's between the cups) should sit flat against your chest, without digging into your skin uncomfortably. If it doesn't fit flat, your bra cups are probably too small.
4. A smooth curve:
   Avoid the dreaded "quad-boob"/"muffin top that results from the top of a too-small cup cutting into breast tissue above the bra. Instead, look for a fit that results in a clean silhouette with no stray tissue. (WikiHow To Measure Your Bra Size)
5. Size and Shape:
   Breasts are usually slightly different sizes. If one breast is significantly larger than the other, then I recommend finding a bra that fits the larger breast and adding a small amount of padding to the bra cup (at the bottom of the cup).
6. Secure Bra Straps:
   If your band is the correct size then your bra straps shouldn't constantly slide off your shoulders. This is a common problem for women with narrower frames who are wearing a band that is too big. The straps will be spaced further out on the band than they should be and therefore will be closer to the ball joint of your shoulder rather than the natural curve between the shoulder joint and neck - which means the straps will constantly slip over the shoulder joint and down the arm.
   
   If your bra fits well then the band supports most of the weight of your breasts, instead of the shoulder straps. This means that your bra shouldn't be cutting grooves into your shoulder! 

For Those Of Us Who Wear Unusual Sizes


Not only do I have a small rib size and a large cup size (which regular stores don't carry), but I find that most of the time, the underwires on the sides of my bra poke me in the armpit in a lot of bras. Also, I can't always tell how much coverage the bra gives - will it show under low-cut tops? - will someone be able to tell if I'm cold? A lot of times the only way to tell is to just try them on.

Specialty Bra Stores
Every single brand and style fits differently. This is why I prefer to use a specialty bra shop and get fitted by a professional. (Not a store like V.S. where the secret is that their "trained" fitters tend to put you in the closest-to-your-size bra that they have in stock).

Specialty stores usually carry a wide variety of bras to try on to find a good fit and the type of bra that I prefer (coverage, style, brand...).

Tip: Even bras from the same company can fit differently, I often can't find my size (34HH) in the average store, and bras from specialty stores typically cost a lot ($70+), so if I don't need a bra right away, I usually go to a specialty bra store to get fitted by a professional. They bring me different bras to try on for fit. 

When I find a bra that fits well and that I like, then I discretely take pictures of the tags. Often, I can purchase the exact same bra online for significantly less. When I want to buy another one, I usually find them for even less because they are no longer the latest model. 

Buying Online
Every brand and style of bra fits differently. If you are purchasing a bra you haven't already tried on, you should definitely shop somewhere with a flexible return policy.

Losing Weight and Stretched Out Bras
When purchasing a bra, unless your rib measurement is within a half-inch of a band size (ex. 33.5"-34" would buy a 34), I suggest you buy the next smaller band size (ex. 33" would buy a 32), because your bra will stretch out over time. You can wear it on the loosest hooks when you purchase it or even add an extender and then tighten it as the bra stretches out (or you lose that weight you swear you are going to lose!). 

If you purchase the smaller band size don't forget about sister sizing! You'll need to go up a cup size if you're going down a band size. If your normal bra size is 40A then you would wear a 38B.

Sagging - As your body gets older you lose a lot of the elasticity of the breast skin, this is the most common cause of saggy breasts, especially for women with larger cup sizes. Wearing a properly fitting bra that supports the breasts can slow this process and/or camouflage it. 

Alterations
One option I use a lot is to find a bra that has the right size cups and then have a professional seamstress alter the band size for me. Luckily for me, I happen to be a seamstress, but it's not an especially difficult alteration and many of the specialty stores offer alterations as an additional service.

How To Make Sewing Pattern Modifications

Full Bust Adjustment

Different types/ styles of bras:

• Unlined - offer structure but are lightweight because they have no heavy padding.
• Demi Cup - only covers about half the breast. This allows for low cut tops.
  

  

  Demi Bra

• Balconette - similar to the Demi cup bra, but usually covers less of the breast. The straps are closer to the outside edge than a standard bra. They also tend to be more femininely embellished.

  

  Balconette Bra

• Push-Up - has padding on the bottom or on the sides of the cups to push up the breasts. The outside of the cups can also be padded to add up to 2 cup sizes.

  

  Push-up Plunge

• Plunge - similar to the push-up bra, but with a deep v-neckline in the front. 
• Full Coverage - for full-figured/busty women - this has more support and a sturdier underwire

  

  Full Coverage

• Minimizer - usually worn by full-figured/ busty women who wish to compress the breasts to make them less noticeable and/or clothing fit better.

  

  Minimizer

• Strapless - relies on the support of the band without needing straps.

  

  Strapless Pushup

• Convertible - straps can be reconfigured so that the bra straps can be moved and reattached to work under a halter, racerback, backless, one shoulder.

  

  Convertible Straps

• Sports Bra - usually made of stretchy fashion fabric. Designed to compress breasts and keep them from bouncing/ moving during vigorous exercise. Usually extends down the ribs a couple of inches like a longline bra.  Typically does not have adjustable straps or underwire. Can be worn under athletic clothes or by itself. 

  

  Sports Bra

• Bralette/ Longline - provides a little more coverage because the bra band extends down the ribs, but usually in a lighter, more flexible fabric. Can be worn under sheer tops and be meant to be visible.
  
  

  

  Longline/ Bralette

• Adhesive/Tape - Adhesive bras or boob tapes are great for wearing under clothes that are backless, strapless, and/or have plunging necklines. They can also be used to minimize or bind the breasts.
  
  Adhesive bras and tapes can create cleavage and even add cup sizes. However, finding an adhesive bra that supports the breasts and stays on (many won't stay stuck to the skin and/or are painful to remove) can be very difficult.
  
  For example, this bra is pushing the breasts together, giving the woman cleavage, but it is not supporting the breasts at all. Dancing and any other activity where the breasts are bouncing around (like running on the beach in a lifeguard swimsuit! lol), would probably be painful. 
  
  
  

  
  
  Think of an adhesive bra like you do any other bra - does it provide the lift and support you want? 
  
  
  
  Sticky Bra Review by Cosmopolitan
  
  
  
• Misses Kisses Bra - frontless, backless, and strapless! It sounds crazy but it works. There are other brands but this one gets great reviews.
  
  
  

• Longline/ Bustier - usually strapless and extends down to the waist or hips. Often used in bridal wear for dresses that are low-cut and/or backless. Made of sturdier bra-type materials with boning, Usually has hook and eye closures just like a regular bra, but all the way down the front or back. Can be used for slimming the torso, waist, and hips (if extends past the waist).

  

  Longline/ Bustier waist length and longline

• Corset - Similar to a bustier, but made of fashion fabric instead of bra-type materials with built-in boning. Usually closed with ribbon through grommets laced down the front or back of the corset. Often tightened in a way that pushes up the breasts and compresses the torso (and waist and hips depending on the length), creating an hourglass shape. Can be worn as an undergarment or over a blouse or dress. 

  

  Typical Lacing

• • Underbust -fit around and under the bust but not actually supporting the bust (with straps this is usually considered to be a corset, without straps this is usually called a Waist Cinch or Waist Trainer). Can also push-up the breasts by supporting the base of the breasts without covering the breasts.

    

    Underbust corset - halter straps

  • Overbust - with or without straps
    - Push up the breasts without using a breast cup or molded form by compressing the bottom of the breast and pushing the rest of the breast tissue upward

    

    Demi cup corset

    
    - Princess seams - no individual cups, but the fabric is shaped to accommodate the breasts.

    

    Princess seams with straps

  • - Individual cups