Friday, August 23, 2013

Does Fabric Make a Difference? McCall's 7451


Does fabric make a difference?  Two brides chose the exact same pattern (McCall's 7451) an off-the-shoulder lace sheath dress with removable train.  The first bride chose a pretty Venetian lace (~$30/yard) with a tulle train.


The second bride chose the same simple sheath dress, but provided ~$1000/yard! heavily beaded and sequined Venetian lace and we used a beautiful organza fabric for the train - gorgeous!


The second bride had originally requested red satin roses be added to her dress.  I managed to convince her that red roses would be distracting and look like a quinceaƱera* dress and I only had to add white satin roses to the top of the sleeves.

Does the fabric make a difference?  You decide!




(*QuinceaƱera - celebration of a girl's 15th birthday and the transition from childhood to young womanhood.  Traditionally the girl wears the equivalent of a wedding ballgown, but usually in pink.)

MCCALL'S 7451 PATTERN DESCRIPTION: Alicyn Exclusive. "Misses' Bridal Gown and Bridesmaids Dress: Set of close fitting long or short sleeve bridal gowns and bridesmaids' dress has front and back darts, back slit and fastens in back with bridal loops and buttons; view A and C have detachable trains."
COPYRIGHT: 1995




Friday, August 16, 2013

Butterick 5101 Review

 I designed this dress for a client, but find clients don't always want to give me pictures of the completed garment.  In this case, I asked a student with similar measurements to model.  If/ when my client sends me a picture I'll replace them!


Pattern Description: 
From the Butterick website: "Wrap front top and dress have all-in-one sleeve, pleated collar extending into front neckline, side tie, sleeve length and hem variations. Mock wrap front skirt and straight leg pants have casing and elastic yoke."  This pattern is now out of print.

I did not notice when the client and I chose this pattern that it was for knits!  She had a couple of yards of beautiful silk, and I believe that it did not need the stretch from the knit.  It turned out beautifully.

Pattern Sizing:
XS-XL. I made an XL. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, although I shortened the skirt a little for my petite client. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were fairly clear throughout although I didn't follow them too closely.  I did discover (after the fact!) that the instructions told me to put the belt loop on the wrong side.  Luckily the stitches did not damage the silk.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love that this pattern was very forgiving.  It fit a wide variety of figure types and the wrap top doesn't gap and crosses fairly high (it fit nicely on me too, even though I'm very busty) meaning you wouldn't have to worry about safety pins or some other form of closure which is often an issue with wraps.  I thought the waist yoke on the skirt was a little short and bulky, and if it weren't covered by the top I would probably have redesigned it.

Fabric Used:
A beautiful lightweight silk!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened the skirt, as my petite client preferred that it hit above the knee.  I also shortened the ties, because I only had a couple of yards of fabric to accommodate both top and skirt!  Obviously since I was using silk instead of a knit, I finished the edges differently than the directions called for (french seams and narrow rolled hems on the facings.  Someone suggested cutting the back on a fold if you're working with a print.  I agree.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will probably sew this top again, but this time for myself. I like wraps.  I'll just need to find a pretty fabric. Probably won't be making the skirt.  I like asymmetrical skirts, but don't think this was a particularly great example and I don't like the waist band. 

Conclusion: 
I was a little nervous when my client chose this pattern, because I was afraid it would look a little dated.  I'm very happy about the way it turned out!