Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Corset - Lingerie contest - Vogue 9273

Lingerie Challenge Contest 2013

Pattern Description: Vogue 9273  Lined top has princess seams. A: front zipper. I modified this pattern so extensively I'm not sure you can still say it's this pattern.

Pattern Sizing: 14-16-18 - Modified for a 36GG cup!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Only superficially. I changed the cup dramatically and extended the torso to a long-line princess waist.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Honestly, I never looked at them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? * In order to fit correctly it NEEDS an underwire (I made this pattern once before), and it still didn't fit flat to the ribs in front. * The zipper/buttons in front are pretty far apart which shifted part of my breasts into my armpits!

Fabric Used: Sheer ivory polyester chiffon. Made a previous version with red vinyl - not comfy!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  •  Self-drafted bra cups from one of my bras. 
  •  Added boning since I didn't have any extra bra underwires (Next time, I will invest in underwires!). 
  •  Extended waist to a long-line (like B) that came to a point in front (like C) and in back. 
  •  Extended top edge of sides and back to provide more support for cups. 
  •  Added elastic to top edge. 
  •  Added self-binding to bottom edge. 
  •  Used heavy duty zip ties for boning - used a modified version of a french seam (similar to a jean side seam) to encase them between the fabric and "lining" (both layers are the same sheer fabric).


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? It's a pretty pattern and I love the corset styling. I'll probably tweak it and try it again.

Conclusion:  I really want a pretty corset and this is a fun pattern - I just wish it weren't so hard to modify to get the cups right!

Not modeling this one as it is totally sheer (you can see the bra pads I used to try to make the mannequin look more like my measurements!)!
Actually, I'm not modeling either one, as my cups runneth over in the red vinyl!!  
(Obviously, the mannequin is not set up for my measurements!

I was never able to get the cups to look right in the pleather (they looked like weird Kermit the Muppet faces). So, I came up with what I think is a clever alternative. I appliqued a Wonder Woman symbol across the chest and made it into a Wonder Woman costume (after Wonder Woman had given birth and breastfed a couple of kids, gotten older, and gained a "few" pounds). 




Saturday, October 26, 2013

New Bags!

I've been designing custom bags for awhile now, but keep forgetting to show you guys!

This cute little bag was purchased by the winner of the Trauma Mama auction.  She requested a smaller purse in bright colors, especially greens and purples, and loved elephants, monkeys and Cloisonné.

The elephants' ears can flap and the lavender elephant's trunk is free standing.  The inside is lined with pockets.

The back of the purse is a sunset with gold stitching.  The strap is adjustable.




This purse is one I designed for myself!  I love the bright colors and that it's big enough to hold my design book!  I've been stopped frequently by people asking where I got it!

The inside is lined with a red vinyl that gives it some body.  The outside is a decorator fabric with extra circles embroidered on.  The strap is decorated with abacus beads!  Inside is a self designed "wallet" with 8 pockets (4 on each side) for all the cards I own (insurance cards, loyalty cards, business cards... all labeled). 



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This wristlet was designed to coordinate with a custom, one-of-a-kind evening gown. It was made from scraps of beautiful, Chinese vintage silk, a family heirloom. The gown had an Asian-inspired sleeveless tunic in the silk and coordinating floor-length flowy skirt in layers of  sapphire blue chiffon.
Vintage silk from China

Thirty One Bags used to carry a "Skirt Purse," this was a cool purse with a removable outside cover. The bag stayed the same, but you could switch out the cover. This client loved the color green. That was all the direction I was given! Here's the bag with 2 different skirts.

Can you spot all the ladybugs?

Other side of the "Ladybug"skirt

Green patchwork fun!


Additional bags
Latest BeTA Auction Winner


Purchase:  If you're interested in purchasing a custom tote or bag, please leave a message on this post -
your e-mail / contact info will not be published  
20% of your purchase of a custom-designed tote or bag will be donated to BeTA 
- a support organization for parents and caregivers of children who have experienced early trauma and have attachment issues.  They offer scholarships to an amazing annual retreat and  provide continual support to caregivers of children of trauma by organizing regional meetings, networking, and education. 

Monday, September 30, 2013

Mini Wardrobe Contest Entry

This is a contest to create a 4-piece wardrobe in 4 weeks. You will determine what clothing pieces you use in your wardrobe.
The 4 garments must combine (without adding additional garments) to create at least 4 "looks".

Look 1 - 
Look 2 - 
  • Blue drape top
  • Purple pants
  • Optional: (not sure if it counts since it's using the reverse of the same piece) - Purple side of the reversible jacket, unbuttoned with the lapels opened and the purple side of the reversible buttons in the top 2 buttonholes of both sides of the lapel.
Look 3 - 
Look 4 - 
  • Plaid wrap dress

PatternReview.com Reviews -
  1. Reversible jacket (Vogue 1643 view C - Modified)
  2. Blue drape top (McCall's 6563 view A) 
  3. Purple pants (Butterick 5403 view B)
  4. Plaid wrap dress (Butterick 5101 view C)

Sunday, September 29, 2013

Butterick 5101 Dress for Mini Wardrobe Contest



This is a fun wrap dress using Butterick pattern 5101 version C, which I recently made for a client in a gorgeous hot pink silk.  I love the way it drapes, and that it's not too low cut, even for my full bust.  

 Pattern Description: Wrap front top and dress have all-in-one sleeve, pleated collar extending into front neckline, side tie, sleeve length and hem variations. Designed for knits, but works well with woven fabric as well. This pattern is now out of print. 

Pattern Sizing: XS-XL. I made an XL. 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, although my version had no sleeves.

Were the instructions easy to follow? They were fairly clear throughout although I didn't follow them too closely and did have to add some edge finishing since I wasn't working with a knit fabric. I did remember that the instructions told me to put the belt loop on the wrong side, so I didn't make that mistake again. 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love that this pattern is very forgiving. It fits a wide variety of figure types and the wrap top doesn't gap and crosses fairly high (it fit nicely on me too, even though I'm very busty) meaning you wouldn't have to worry about safety pins or some other form of closure which is often an issue with wraps. I did have some issues with the skirt not staying closed when I sit down and blowing open in the wind - both to be expected with wrap dresses.

Fabric Used: No idea what the fabric is! It's a slightly shiny, medium weight bright, abstract plaid that's been in my stash, waiting for me to find a good excuse to finally make it!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Since I wasn't using a knit, I serged and finished the edges differently than those called for in the directions. Someone suggested cutting the back on a fold if you're working with a print - a great idea for plaid! I left off the sleeves and shortened the hem. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will most definitely be making this again. It's easy and classic.

Conclusion: This was my favorite piece I made for the contest.


McCall's 6563 Top for Mini Wardrobe Contest

Pattern Description: Fitted, pullover, bias tops have draped front neckline, shaped hemline and narrow hem. B: contrast band and right side. C: sleeve tabs. A, B and C: cap sleeves.

Pattern Sizing: XS - XXL

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, although I admit I didn't pay a lot of attention to them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the drape, but maybe because I'm full-busted, my top looked a little strained in spots and wrinkled in others.

Fabric Used: Some shiny, light-weight polyester fabric I had in my stash. I didn't have enough to cut both pieces on the bias so I only cut the front on the bias.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Back not cut on the bias. I made a lot of alterations to accommodate my smaller frame and full bust.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will probably sew this again with a silkier fabric that drapes instead of wrinkles.

Conclusion: I like the color of this top, but wish I'd made it in something silkier.
McCall's 6563

1643 Vogue Basic Design Jacket - Mini Wardrobe Contest

I modified this out of print pattern quite a bit, including making it reversible.




Pattern Description: Out of print pattern.  Semi-fitted, lined, above or below hip jacket has neckline variations, shoulder pads, princess seams and long, two-piece sleeves with mock vent and button trim.

Pattern Sizing: Multi - Mine was an 18-20-22

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Not really, because I modified the heck out of it!

Were the instructions easy to follow? Honestly I didn't follow the directions, because I modified the jacket to be reversible.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Based on the pattern images, I assumed the pattern was a little more fitted.

Fabric Used:  The fabrics I used had been in my stash for a significant amount of time.  The purple was a medium weight fabric.  The stripe was very lightweight.  I had very little fabric left and had to piece the purple on the lapels and collar and didn't have enough fabric to make a deep lapel.


PhotoShopped sketch
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I found this gorgeous black and white striped jacket and wanted to use a fun striped fabric from my stash. To match the inspiration jacket, I altered view C to have pointed lapels and cut the front corners off the hem.   Then I tailored the whole thing to be more form fitting and adjusted for a full bust.

I decided to make the jacket reversible so I didn't use facings.  I didn't have enough of either fabric for a full length sleeve so I altered it to 3/4 sleeves.  The purple pockets on the striped side are faux. I put buttonholes on both sides and sewed the buttons together so that they work like cuff links.  I used a covered button covered in the purple fabric for one side of the buttons.
Would you sew it again?  Maybe.  It's very basic.  I would definitely use a heavier fabric next time or interface the heck out of everything.
Would you recommend it to others?  Sure.
Conclusion:  This is a very versatile piece for the Mini Wardrobe contest.  It can be worn 3 ways. Stripe side with purple buttons.  Purple side with gold buttons.  Purple side - open with the strip side showing and the purple buttons in the top button holes.

Butterick B5403 - Pants for Mini Wardrobe Contest




Pattern Description: This jean design features a straight waistband with belt carriers, front hip pockets, mock fly front zipper, classic yoke with back patch pockets and topstitching details. Jeans A have straight legs. Jeans B have wide leg. I made the wide leg version.
  Pattern Sizing:XS to XL
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Unfortunately, yes. I didn't notice on the pattern how high-waisted the pants are. They were also very short. Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I was very unhappy with how high-waisted the pants are. They tend to blouse in the crotch, maybe because I didn't make them in denim.
Fabric Used: This fabric has been in my stash for so long I have no idea. It is a medium-weight synthetic that doesn't wrinkle too badly.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I wanted this to look more like slacks than jeans so I left off the belt loops and back pockets.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?   I won't be making these again. I really disliked how the crotch looks.
Conclusion: I loved the color of these pants and of course they match the jacket I made for the mini wardrobe contest, but I think I'll be giving them to my mom.